Thursday, June 23, 2011

Portland, Day 1

We're sitting in Portland's Union Station, waiting for the Cascades to Vancouver, BC. I figured I should post about what we did here. :)

The Coast Starlight was a lovely ride, but it is certainly taking the scenic route. Outside of major cities, it travels along some pretty lonely stretches of track which have pretty low speed limits. The train ambles leisurely between Santa Barbara and San Jose, and similarly as it travels across the Cascades. The view in both cases, however, is spectacular. The Cascades crossing is particularly spectacular- there is nothing around but the rail line. You're riding through relatively untouched wilderness- and doing so in the Sightseer Lounge car, which has wraparound windows. We have some photos, but they don't do it justice:




We arrived in Portland a few hours late, due to UP signal problems in central Oregon. We spent an hour and a half heading through farmland at 19 miles an hour, stopping at each signal and calling the dispatcher for authority to proceed. We finally arrived and took the MAX light rail to our hotel, the Clarion Portland Airport. It was a nice hotel (and a great deal- thanks Hotwire!), but I wish we'd stayed somewhere closer. The trip between downtown and the hotel involved a long train ride to the airport, then calling the hotel's shuttle to come pick us up at said airport.


After getting checked in, we decided to make the best of our late arrival and take in the city. Because Dani declined a sandwich that afternoon, she was feeling very hungry and very insistent upon Mexican food, so we went in search of an inexpensive burrito. We stopped by Powell's City of Books, the largest book store in the country, but we didn't stay long- just long enough to ask an employee where she'd go to get a burrito. She pointed us to a restaurant that used to be El Grillo, which our guidebook says is the cheapest meal downtown, aside from the food trucks. Sadly, it is no longer El Grillo, but Santeria, who supposedly has "the best mexican food on Earth." We waited an hour and a half for nachos and tacos, and when they arrived they were just okay. (The service was worse than Templo del Sol, and those of you who know Templo will know that's saying something.) By the time we were done, the only things left open downtown were nightlife, which of course is out of our budget, so we headed for the MAX train back to the airport. A quick glance at Google Transit showed, however, that the last train for the airport had already left. We grabbed a bus, which got us within a mile of our hotel, and then hoofed it the rest of the way through a dark, deserted area of business parks. Dani was not happy with me. We resolved to make our next day in Portland an improvement.

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

A month on Amtrak- What could go wrong?

A lot, it turns out.

Due to extreme flooding along the route of the Seattle-Chicago Empire Builder, the train has been cancelled for "at least a month," according to an Amtrak agent I spoke to. That train, of course, was a key part of our itinerary. We've been re-routed, but it's screwing some things up. We won't be staying in Chicago, and we'll be getting in to Toronto a day later than planned. All things considered, not too bad- but we also have to look forward to 5 days straight in coach. We also have nowhere to stay in Seattle, where we now have to overnight. (I'm working on getting compensation from Amtrak.)

I'll let you know how things turn out.

Overheard

"At your right is a reservoir, and people have been asking me what it's called. That is the Lookout Point Reservoir, also known as Lake Lottawater."

(It also happens to be gorgeous.)


Monday, June 20, 2011

Overheard on the radio

Engineer: "Conductor, Amtrak 14, we hit a shopping cart. I feel it bouncing around under there, so we're going to stop and check it out."

It has begun!

By the time you read this, Dani and I will be on our way to Portland, OR. A friend mentioned to me that I didn't have a clear list of the places we'll be visiting, so I figure I'll post one up.

On this trip, we'll be stopping in:

  • Portland, OR
  • Vancouver, BC
  • Victoria, BC
  • Chicago, IL
  • Niagara Falls, NY and ON
  • Toronto, ON
  • Montreal, QC
  • New York, NY
  • Boston, MA
  • Portland, ME
  • Lubec, ME (the easternmost point in the continental United States)
  • Bar Harbor, ME (Acadia Nat'l Park)
  • Washington, DC
  • New Orleans, LA


We'll arrive in Portland tomorrow afternoon. Thanks for following along!

Friday, May 20, 2011

One month to go!


That's the vacation ticker I keep in my signature at a web forum... and it says that we've got precisely one month to go until Epic Train Trip! Here's an update on how things are progressing:


After Mini Train Trip, we both agreed that the duffel bags just didn't cut it. First off, both of them were somewhat damaged afterwards, and I doubt they would have held up to a month's worth of being stuffed to the gills. Second, travelling with both my usual shoulder bag AND my duffel bag on my shoulders is cumbersome and difficult to arrange properly- not well-suited to hopping on and off of various forms of transport, which will be the norm this summer. Third, I found a pretty good deal on a bag that looked uniquely suited to our trip- the eBags eTech Weekender Convertible. This carry-on-sized bag is designed to be carried as a backpack by two hide-away straps, along with a removable hip belt and sternum strap for heavier loads. Based on the lifetime warranty and glowing reviews all over the web, I bought two- Dani has the blue version, while mine is in rust orange. I'll be sure to let you know how that decision works out.


Oh, and we got tickets! Did I mention we got tickets? Oh, we've got so very many tickets. When I went down to Los Angeles for National Train Day (7 May), I figured it was close enough to trip time that I ought to print our tickets out. (We'd been putting that off in order to take advantage of Amtrak's ridiculously generous refund policy, in case something in our life really exploded.) Well, we've now got 26 Amtrak tickets and 6 Greyhound tickets between the two of us, as well as the USA Rail Pass itself. (The pass is actually a standard-sized Amtrak ticket, with the ticket stub torn off, stapled [and stapled and stapled and stapled...] to a specialized ticket folder.)

Also, remember that packing list that I've mentioned so many times? We recently finalized the lists for the trip, and my mother was kind enough to laminate them for us. Now, instead of trying to make increasingly creative marks next to each check box, or trying to do the checklist in our heads, we can write on the list with a transparency marker. New hotel, wipe it off, check it again.

So, in sum, the planning is done, the reservations are made, the money's been sent off, the travel gear is here, the luggage is here, the tickets are here... the only thing we're waiting for is the date. It all starts a month from now, 20 June 2011. It's gonna be a looooong month.

Saturday, April 2, 2011

Mini Train Trip, Part 3

As was our custom on this trip (and as it shall not be on Epic Train Trip!), we spent the next morning foraging for food. Fortunately, I got Dani out of bed before noon this time. We wandered down Haight to a coffee shop called The Grind (not to be confused with Riverside staple Back to the Grind) and had breakfast- french toast this time! Also, a very delicious brownie that was calling my name from in front of the cash register- damned impulse buys. We then got on the Muni and headed off to the day's premiere attraction: The California Academy of Sciences. Cal Academy is a spectacular institution, containing a large natural history museum, an aquarium, a state-of-the-art planetarium, and a fully-functioning rainforest ecosystem-in-a-dome. It is NOT to be missed. (A tip: You get $3 off the admittedly-expensive ticket price if you show your public transit ticket or pass, and this discount stacks- ie, you can get a student discounted price AND get $3 off by showing a Muni or BART ticket or transfer.)

While at CalAcademy, you can start where we did: the roof. The recently-renovated building itself is part of the museum's exhibits, and the roof showcases many of the sustainability initiatives incorporated into the structure. There's also much to be learned about the local ecology, plants and wildlife (esp. birds) up there, and you get great views of the surrounding Golden Gate Park. Here's a girl on a roof:



We visited the planetarium while there, and let me say that the facility was top-notch. Unlike traditional planetaria, which require viewers to lean back and look up at the sky, the dome at CalAcademy has the north pole rotated to about 45 degrees above the horizon- meaning you can sit much like you're watching a movie and enjoy the show. The actual show they presented was somewhat disappointing, however- it was entitled "Life: A Cosmic Story." When I go to a planetarium, I expect to be shown the stars, and told about astrophysics and the origin and function of our universe. This show is much more about the evolutionary origins of life on Earth, with a little bit of the formation of the solar system thrown in. I wanted to hear the "we are all stardust" story, but I got the "tree of life." Nothing wrong with that, it's an important lesson, but it wasn't one I was expecting in a planetarium. (For a much more out-of-this world experience, readers should visit the recently-renovated Oschin Planetarium at the Griffith Observatory in LA.)

Scattered about the museum are photogenic animals of all sorts- mostly aquatic. Meet Claude, the albino alligator:



Also, an African penguin, of whom we have plenty of blurry pictures...



And an adorable tortoise, nomming a leaf of lettuce:



The Academy also had a pretty extensive exhibit on global warming, which surprised even eco-crazy me on just how serious of a problem it is. We're already seeing changes in migratory and predatory patterns in California wildlife, which are bringing them in closer contact with people. My one issue with the exhibit was their "take action" pitch to visitors. In each category- food, transportation, housing, etc.- they had small actions, medium actions and large ones. For instance, in terms of household energy, a small action was to replace light bulbs with CFLs, a medium was to have a home energy audit, and a large one was to install solar or wind generating capacity. In transportation, the small action was to drive less, the medium one was to bike or use public transport, and the large one was... you guessed it... buy a hybrid. Of course, switching to bicycling and public transport over driving at all would be much better for the planet, but saying such a thing would be heresy in our car-centric culture, so it goes unsaid.

The only other issue with our visit to Cal Academy was our timing. Saturday appears to be "take-your-kids-to-the-museum day" in Golden Gate Park, and Cal Academy was swarming with children. Not such a big deal to begin with, but by 15:00 or so they were starting to get cranky and loud. In the planetarium, at least one kid was still afraid of the dark, and he said so- "The dome scares me!" His parents were considerate enough to take him out when it became clear that he wasn't going to stay quiet. I mean, I'm glad that parents are teaching their kids about science- maybe they'll grow up to be more knowledgeable and conscientious citizens- but I know there was a point there where Dani and I just had to leave. Keep that in mind when scheduling your visit.

After Cal Academy, Dani and I met up with one of her friends from Facebook who lives in the area. The first question she asked us about our trip was "Did you drive or fly?" Heh. We hung out with her until a friend of hers from high school came by to drop off Girl Scout cookies- sadly, no Caramel Delights. Her friend ended up tagging along with us. We went out to a local Chinese restaurant, which was extraordinarily delicious. (Carol was also nice enough to treat- Thanks Carol!) Even Dani ate quite a bit of it, and this is particularly uncharacteristic of Dani. Perhaps there is hope for her yet! Afterwards, we went for ice cream at the Toy Boat ice cream parlour, which was quite an experience. Besides being delicious, it was entirely covered in retro toys and decor (all in the typical futuristic style of the early Atomic Age). All-in-all, it was a nice evening out.

Around 9, Dani and I caught the Muni back to the hotel, and I embarked upon one of the many Epic Train Trip exercises that I had planned for the week: laundry. Dressed in my swim trunks and leather jacket (they were the only things not to be washed), I walked everything down to the hotel's laundry room and washed them. It went without incident, though I did get a very strange look from the front desk guy. Sadly, I don't have photos of my ridiculous getup.

We left The City the next morning, and I realized I'd forgotten to mail my postcards. (One to a friend, the other to myself- because I keep the cancellations.) I figured it'd be simple enough to find a mailbox on Market St. near the Embarcadero. I figured wrong. In a mad dash, I ended up dropping the cards off at the third-floor lobby of the Hyatt Embarcadero and running back to the bus stop, just in time to get aboard the AmBus to Emeryville.

Once in Emeryville, we headed out to Track 2 to board the San Joaquin heading south. The station staff ushered us across Track 1 pretty quickly, and it soon became apparent why: the westbound California Zephyr soon made an appearance on that track, not only threatening to squash any in its path but also cutting track 2 off from the station building entirely. Don't show up late for train 714 at Emeryville! After a quick announcement from the conductor- "This train does not go to Sacramento, this train will never go to Sacramento"- we were on our way back home from a pleasant weekend.